Bali, the land of gods

Stunning sunsets in Gili Meno

Arrival and day 1 in Sanur

Starting my trip with Luisa

Going through immigration at Denpasar Airport was easy and quick, no visa for Spanish people, no long queues. A myriad of real and fake taxi drivers surround you the minute they see you, you shoo them away, they ask for a fare 3 or 4 times higher and the bargaining begins. Nothing in Bali has a fixed price for tourists and what for Balinese people is part of the business can be really exhausting. The fake taxi driver who took me to my hotel tried to give a 5,000 note change instead of 50,000!!! F**k!!!

Ulawatu Temple cliffs

I’m sharing the room with Luisa on the first night. Next day, she has a motorbike rented, so I jump on the back to go and visit Antonio and Monika’s homestay and we crash into a wall in the first minute. Shit!!! I didn’t know she had little experience riding. She doesn’t seem to be worried at all, picks up the fallen pieces and off we go again. The road is super busy and I’m scared but I have no option. The owner of their homestay is a European who came 45 years ago and he tells us the story of his dog being lost and the person who found him asking for 1 million rupies to get him back. What??? Mafia!!!

Dinner at Jimbaran Beach

In the afternoon we say goodbye to Luisa and the family and I hire a car to do a tour to Ulawatu Temple. We stop on the way to visit a luwak coffee shop. These animals eat the coffee beans and 3 hours later they poo them. Their stomach acids are supposed to add special properties to the coffee and then it is sold at crazy prices, more than 200 USD per kilo. 



The plan is to see a traditional Balinese dance show while we enjoy an amazing sunset over the cliffs. Unfortunately (or not), there are no tickets left for the show, so it’s only the sunset and temple. I have to walk around with no glasses as I’m told the monkeys will take them. We end our first day with a lovely dinner in Jimbaran Beach, fresh fish and grilled seafood. I even dance the song ‘Cuando sali de Cuba’.

Spectacular sight of Danu Bratan by the lake

Day 2: Travelling to Ubud

A garden of rice fields and palm trees

I leave Sanur not having seen the beach, apparently dirty and I’m back on the road to see Pura Ulun Danu Bratan in Bedugul, which is by the beautiful Beratan lake and garden up north. We stop to visit Pura Taman Ayun temple in Mengwi. Reaching the lake takes forever as the whole country seems to be on the road. It is worth it anyway as that place is really beautiful. 

We get to Ubud in the evening and I instantly fall in love with the city and the surroundings. Most Balinese hindu houses consist of a compound with several buildings and include a family temple. I’m staying in Wina Ubud Homestay (recommended also for cleanliness and delicious breakfast) where Pastika’s family are very hospitable and helpful hosts and that will change my thinking of Indonesian people being dishonest with tourists.

We discuss religion in general and Balinese Hinduism in particular. People give offerings to the gods and thank them for what they have and that means after every meal, they put some of what they had in a shallow basket made of leaves and place it in front of the house or shop. It’s a skill not to step on one of the many when walking on the street. I’ve asked questions and read about it but I still don’t quite 
 get it.

      
     

Days 3, 4 and 5: Ubud and surroundings

Ubud is famous internationally after the film Eat, Pray, Love was shot there. After spending two days with Antonio’s family, I take the day to myself and wander about to visit Ubud Palace, Ubud Market and the ARMA Museum. I decide to skip the Sacred Monkey Forest, I don’t want to get stressed about one of those little bastards stealing my expensive glasses. We all reunite for dinner at Bu Rus Warung (recommended restaurant) and Luisa joins us as she is on her way to do a course with the well-known Green School.

Holy Water temple

Learning Balinese dance 

Next day, we do a whole day tour around Ubud with Pastika who takes us to wonderful places: a Waterfall in Tegenungan village, Goa Gajah (Elephant Cave), Tirta Empul Tampaksiring (Holy Water Temple), a dormant Volcano and the rice terraces in Tegalagang. The temples are not of the sort with shiny golden stupas like Buddhist temples in Myanmar. They feature ancient sculptures, carved in stone and wooden gateways profusely decorated. With temperatures close to 40 degrees and a humidity of almost 100%, I was more than happy to perform the spiritual cleaning ritual of the two pools of spring water that flows from the many fountains. The beauty of the countryside is difficult to put in words, the many shades of green seen in trees and fields, the lush vegetation and thick forests are astonishing.  This would be one of the most magical days of my time in Bali.

Simbiosis piedra-cuerpo

Gozando en las aguas sagradas

On my last day in Ubud, Monika and I start off at 7 am with a two-hour walk in the Campuhan Ridge Walk. A great way to get some inner energy and be in contact with nature. Later, I visit a beauty salon and do some shopping, just some Indonesian batik fabric to make a dress when I’m back in Myanmar. I got a good deal, 100,000 rupies (7.50 USD). I meet the family for an early dinner in Ibu Rai (recommended) and I without any previous planning, I get a last minute ticket to see traditional Balinese Legong Dance and Ramayana in Ubud Palace. It’s a show put up for tourists and a bit long, but it’s fine to watch it once as it’s a unique experience of Balinese dance and rich culture.

Day 6: From Ubud to Gili Islands

At 6.45 am, I had two guys at my door coming to pick me up and take me to Padang Bai harbour to catch the fast boat to Gili Meno. It takes some talking and a few phone calls before it’s clear who will take me. It seems the agency made a double booking (2 is better than none, I guess). There are hundreds of tourists waiting to board the many boats. I have a booking with Ekajaya company that has big ferries with aircon, for which I paid 350,000 rupies one way (25 USD).

Amazing creature (not my photo)

The boat stops first at Gili Tranwagan, the party island. In Gili Meno, the quietest of the three islands, I meet Hale, a colleague from my school who’s been travelling with Dewi, an Indonesian friend at Ana Warung Resort. We hang around together for lunch, sunset and dinner. 

Day 7: Turtle day in Gili Meno

Quiet life in Meno

I hire my snorkeling gear and jump in the sea just in front of our resort with the hope to see a sea turtle. Even though I’m a good swimmer, I don’t feel confident in the middle of the ocean. I’m with Hale, an experienced diver and that reassures me. Wow!!! What a fantastic sight!!! As soon as you swim a few metres from the shore, you can see hundreds of colourful fish: clownfish (Nemos), anemone fish butterfly fish, blueface angelfish, azure damsel, longfin pennantfish, onespot rabbitfish,... (I googled all these names). I’ve never seen anything like that, it’s like swimming in an aquarium. And then, I spot my first green turtle, I’m so excited, other snorkelers come and start touching her. What??? I go away from the show and see another one, this time we quietly swim with her until the big drop in the sea. Then a third one, yay, they’ve made my day!!! I’ve burnt my legs after 2 and a half hours but I don’t care. Later, I hire a bicycle to go round the island, which is quite small.

Day 8: From Gili Meno to Gili Air

We go snorkeling before breakfast and I’m lucky enough to encounter a big turtle (hawksbill turtle) and swim with her for a few minutes. This feeling has stuck with me since I came back. Such spectacular marine life!!! Indonesia has more than 17,000 islands and accounts for two thirds of the marine life species in the world.

The boat only takes 15 minutes to reach Gili Air, the closest to Lombok. We have a two-bedroom villa booked here, and the best accommodation of all. Highly recommended, Si Pitung is a cheap and quiet place away from the crowds with lovely staff and a small pool and garden space.

I didn’t enjoy my snorkeling experience here as there were strong currents that made me tired. Nothing can beat my mesmerizing time with the turtles in Meno.

Offering for good karma

Day 9: Back to Bali

The GiliGili ferry comes an hour late. I booked with them because it was easy and cheaper than Ekajaya, 300,000 rupies but I kind of regret it later because there is no A/C and the boat is much smaller so you can feel the waves much more.

With Hale in Gili Air

When we reach Padang Bai port, we are distributed in cars and taken to our hotels. I have a reservation at a cheap hotel in Kuta, just to drop my bag and have a shower before heading to the airport because I have to be at the airport at around midnight. The traffic is crazy and I spend two long hours on the road!!! 

I have my cheapest (1.5 $) and latest (5 pm) lunch in a local warung and make it in time to see my last Balinese sunset in Kuta Beach. It is crowded, but it’s long and has big waves, ideal for surfing. Kuta resembles Salou, Marbella or any cheap touristy spot, it’s full of Australians and loud bars showing sports in gigantic screens. I meet Luisa for dinner. I’m not impressed with the local cuisine, the classic dish nasi goreng is simply rice with chicken/pork/seafood, not much of a novelty in south-east Asia.

Balinese dance

Bali has been described by many travellers as a magical place that brings serenity and calmness to the soul. It may be because Balinese people accept what they have and give thanks all the time for being so fortunate. I’m not a very spiritual person myself but I did feel more in harmony with nature.